Published: 3 February, 2011
by MATTHEW LEWIN

Exciting menu and no problems parking ­– well worth the journey

I BLAME the greedy landlords of Hampstead for the fact that you have to go to the outer reaches of Highbury to find excellent cooking like this.

I would like to think that when Rob Wilkinson set about making his dream of having his own restaurant come true, he would have preferred to open it somewhere like Hampstead.

But, when he saw what the rent might be in somewhere like NW3, Highbury Park became a much more attractive proposition.

I promise you that the journey is worthwhile, and there are absolutely no parking problems once you get there.

Juniper Dining is the realisation of a dream for Rob – and that’s how it feels when the exciting and innovative menu lands in your hands. (It did not surprise me to learn that it won the Best Menu award at the 2010 London Restaurant Festival).

Our starters included a cream of mushroom soup enlivened with white truffle and a sprinkling of chives and olive oil that brought big smiles to the faces of our companions, Greedyboy and Wonder Woman.

My Chief Culinary Adviser, had haggis for her starter – a whole roast baby haggis, served with neeps and mash.

My starter was pieces of chicken crisply fried with coconut and served with a Thai salad, roasted peanuts and a very good sweet chilli dressing.

And the main courses were equally good. My Adviser and Wonder Woman had pan-fried skate wings with new potatoes and spinach that they enthused about.

Greedyboy climbed inside his slow-roasted free-range pork belly, enticingly served with dauphinoise potatoes and fried sage leaves, and refused to let anyone come in to join him.

I had the fish of the day, perfectly grilled fillets of sea bass, served on crushed potatoes and alongside some green beans that simply could not have been more perfect.

Greedyboy also had a baked chocolate pudding dessert that resembled a soufflé in some respects, served with cream and a line of fresh raspberries.

Our bill, including wine, coffee and 10 per cent service, came to £28 per person – outstanding value for money. 

SUMMARY:  

Modern European cooking with a touch of Thailand.  Open for dinner Tuesday to Friday, all day Saturday from 9am, and Sunday 9am to 7pm. Around £25 for three courses, before drinks and service. Set menu: two courses for £15.95 and three for £18.95.

Rating: 3 1/2 Stars Out Of 5 

Juniper Dining
100 Highbury Park, N5
020 7288 8716
eat@juniperdining.co.uk
www.juniperdining.co.uk